Good news – biggest savings ever!
If you order your solar panels from us (order value at P10,000 or more) we will DELIVER them for FREE (cemented roads only, subject to our approval, system needs to be prepaid through BPI or in person) and give you ADVISE on HOW and WHERE to install them. Due to lack of staff we can’t do the roof attachment or fixing the wires to the walls, but we will be happy to do a QUICK INSTALL (minimum order value depending on location) if you get a complete solar system from us.
Covered area: Northern Bukidnon, Cagayan de Oro and Sayre Highway in between. For Davao etc surcharge or higher order volume will be required.
Needed materials (wire, connectors) will be charged as needed.
Example of a Quick Install:
We will deliver the system to your location, we will put the panels loosely in your garden – (not on the roof!), put the solar controller, batteries and inverter in your house. Then we will estimate the needed wire from the panel to the controller and sell it to you, get your batteries ready and wire everything, so you can see it in operation and use it.
It is recommend that you hire a local handy man, to do a roof install and put the wire in the right places and attach it properly and do further wire extensions if needed. We won’t do this, as the budget for a quick install is 30-60 minutes. But as you can see we do the complicated part, where somebody less qualified could do a mistake or be confused how to do it right.
Yes! You can do it yourself: Take your average electric bill, multiply it by 120 (that’s the next 10 years) and you have a rough estimate, how much your expenses will be.
Electric bill is P4,000 a month = Grid-tie Solar system is P480,000 and you will need around 22 square meter of roof, carport-roof or garden space for the panels.
Of course this price can vary depending how much China or Germany we are using 🙂 But hey, after 10 years you are done with electricity expenses – no more!
Solar panels are roughly made out of aluminum, glass, silicium cells, some wiring and sealant. This is all pretty rough and indestructible stuff, even in our intense weather. The cells usually still have 90% of their new power after 20 years, 80% after 30 years and yes, there are solar panels out there that have that age. Most vulnerable could be the sealant, but its unlikely to fail. Still you might want to check on it every 5 years.
So even if solar panels appear painfully expensive, actually their long life doesn’t make them a bad deal at all. Also consider what energy prices will be like in 20 years…
Solar panels have the image of being too costly to amortize. This has fortunately changed and panels got quite affordable now. Now that the Philippines can finally allow Netmetering installation, solar systems can be installed without any batteries, which removes running expense. Without the batteries we could amortize after 10 years, which is not bad at all considering the long life span of solar panels – Think 25-30 years or more. With the need of re-buying batteries every 3-8 years it can take much longer, depending on future energy and battery prices.
A battery based system can however amortize very quickly, if you don’t have an electricity grid nearby and it relieves you from buying hundreds of meters of cable, poles, or a loud and gas-guzzling generator, especially when energy needs are low.
Lastly: does it really-really need to amortize? Isn’t it just a very good feeling producing green energy, without emissions, noise and the need for fossil fuels? How much is it worth, when the city/province has a brown-out, but not your house that remains quietly and well-illuminated? Price-less? 🙂
The Silicium in polycrystalline cells is not oriented in a uniform direction, thus they have a lower efficiency, maybe 15% opposed to 19% of a monocrystalline panel. Sounds bad, right? Not really. Because we buy the panels at a peso/watt rate and that one is the same for both types. So the real “disadvantage” of a poly-panel is that it is about 20% larger than a mono-panel. But poly panels have the advantage of harvesting more energy under less optimal angles (because the crystals are facing in many directions). This is not part of the price/watt calculation and turns out like a small bonus for poly panels.
Having larger panels is for most of our customers quite welcome, because the panels shade the GI-roof, which in return stays cool and doesn’t send heat radiation into the house. Plus the roof might also last significantly longer being sheltered that way.
Therefore mono-panels are preferred for trackers (motors that let the panels follow the sun), satellites and houses that don’t have enough roof space or problems with the weight of the panels.
Recently we heard from some customers that they had bad experiences with poly modules bought from a discounter, thus preferring mono panels, but this certainly can’t be generalized for all poly modules. Ours are always grade A, despite being offered lower qualities we never imported those, because solar panels only make sense if they last.
Still if you are building a new house and you don’t know the expected consumption, here is an example how to calculate it. Just a few examples, make sure to think about it well, so you don’t forget items:
4 light bulbs outdoor 9 Watt each running 12 hours a day = 4 * 9W * 12h = 432 Wh
5 light bulbs indoor 7 Watt each running 4 hours a day = 5 * 7W * 4h = 140 Wh
2 laptop computers 60 Watt each running 3 hours a day = 2 * 60W * 3h = 360 Wh
1 hair dryer 1000W running 6 minutes a day = 1000W * 0.1h = 100 Wh
1 microwave 1500W running 3 minutes a day = 1500W * 0.05h = 75 Wh
1 TV standby operation (red light on) 5W running 20 hours a day = 5W * 20h = 100Wh
1 TV watching 120W running 4 hours a day = 120W * 4 = 480Wh
1 Refrigerator 100W running 12 hours a day (here you really have to listen how many minutes its on and off) = 1200Wh
Total 2887Wh = 2.887 kWh
Now in the Philippines you can roughly say – well according to NASA data – that a solar panel can harvest on AVERAGE 5 hours of full rated power per day. So a 100W panel get 500Wh per day. For our example above we would therefore need 600W of solar panels to cover 3 kWh in a day.
Still you have to count in allowance for losses – batteries are good in loosing some energy along the way and worse, the word ‘AVERAGE’ above. Because on some days it is just raining or dark overcast. In those cases the panels are not producing a ‘little less’ energy, but a ‘lot less’! Maybe 80% less or worse. Of course on sunny days you get more than 5 hours. Still as you know, when a typhoon crosses the country we can be 4 days in the dark if we have bad luck.
To work against this effect you have the following options:
– buy more solar panels than per calculation (nice for power-splurging on sunny days!)
– buy more batteries (most reliable option)
– use energy according to the weather – for example use washing machine only on sunny days, go dining/cinema on rainy evenings etc.
– just switch to city grid, if you run out of solar power (sad, but usually cheaper than extremely oversizing a solar system)
Definitely the most common question we get. First of all, we don’t talk number of panels here, as panels can have any size, the discussion is about the wattage needed. Many of those inquiring believe or hope by buying a few solar panels for a five digit amount (PHP!) will free them from all their power bills in the future. Well, this might be true if you don’t use any large scale appliances like air-conditioners, electric pumps or similar. If you use the latter regularly, you are in for a fraction of a million pesos. Further your roof might not be large enough and you also need some serious space to store dozens if not hundreds of large batteries. Therefore, if you inquire about a solar system, the most precise number you can give us, is your electric bill. Somewhere you should find the kWh consumed, or if you don’t have it at hand the average amount in Pesos that you are paying. That’s better than how many light bulbs you have, how many laptops (which vary greatly in their consumption) etc. Don’t be discouraged if your electric bill is too large to go 100% solar. You can also do a partial system that focusses on the smaller consumers and leaves the a/c on the grid. That way live goes on during brown-out and it still lowers your bills.